Mystras hangs between heaven and earth, glorious Byzantium and modern times. With her bones, hung on the mountainside alongside the new skin added by meticulous restoration, she is at once ancient and renewed. Her narrow cobblestone streets, roofless palaces and mysterious churches, which give the visitor a respite from the arduous passage, are filled with ancient Byzantine ghosts of Theodora Tocco crying for her lost child, Cleofe Malatesta, headstrong, elegant, controversial and Constantine Palaiologos, the last Byzantine emperor; their voices carried on the wings of honey bees and giant black iridescent beetles.